There, how hard can that be?
But as I started yesterday to write down some things that I've learned about food, I discovered just how complex the subject really is. After all, food is one of the three basic "necessities of life." It's nutritional, political, artistic, social, emotional and historical--and probably many other things as well.
As tempted as I am to try write down a complete philosophy of food here, I think that concrete examples are more descriptive in their own way, so I think I'll just list some of the aspects of things I've learned about food since I started my foray into local and seasonal foods about three years ago. Admittedly I started from the depths of ignorance, so don't be too shocked at what I consider worthwhile knowledge!
1. What grows when: If you know to expect beets from your CSA or market in June, leafy greens in July, and the flourishing of all kinds of tomatoes in August, you get a feel for what dishes you can cook most easily when, and have time to find recipes that use your ingredients well. The more you know and practice, the better you get at it, and the more fun you can have! But most of all, cooking seasonally has revolutionized the way I cook. It's been the launching point for a lot of other learning about food.
2. What varieties of each food are likely to be available locally, what what each is best for: Plum tomatoes for sauce, Sweet 100s for salads and to go with mozzarella and basil, beefsteaks for sandwiches. Fuji's are good for eating and salsa, Macintoshes are slightly tart, Romes are for baking, Granny Smiths are all-purpose. Squashes, beans, potatoes--they all have their varieties and best uses.
Cherry tomatoes are great with basil, mozzarella and balsamic vinegar. And it's easy, too!
3. Food prep: How to efficiently dice vegetables, the rocking motion of a knife, how to get the milk out of an ear of corn, using cilantro stems but not parsley stems, how to boil a tomato to peel it easily, and how to roast a pepper to peel it (still trying to figure out the best method for my oven on that one). These are all handy to know. I've been gleaning lots of tips from Deborah Madison's cookbooks and James Peterson's The Essentials of Cooking.
4. How the foods interact, or how to make bases: Saute the onions and celery before adding tomatoes so they won't float. Make a chicken broth using vegetables and a whole chicken, veal bones, or even chicken feet to get the health benefits of the cartilage. How to make a decent hollandaise (I still goof this sometimes), or an aioli, or an all purpose marinade out of what you have on hand. I've learned to make tomato sauce this year, too. And of course, C.Z. is learning to bake with yeast. Knowing these things makes it easier to put a really tasty meal together faster, once you've spent a day or two, as you have time, learning or prepping the bases.
C.Z.'s challah
5. How to stock a pantry: Alice Waters has a nice list in her book, The Art of Simple Food. There are dry staples, and perishable staples. Who knew that salted capers could be so useful? The perishable staples have always been a sticking point for me, because if I try too many different kinds of recipes at once, I either wind up constantly running to the store at the last minute or having to throw out rotting food from my refrigerator. And then there's the whole matter of trying to use dried beans, which I never can seem to time right to use with my all-too-perishable and not-at-all-local avocados and mangoes, but I'm trying to get the hang of it. (Also, see number 8 on planning, below.)
6. Which equipment is worth having, and which is superfluous: I was given lots of gadgets when we lived in suburbia, many of which I never used, so I left most of them behind when we moved to Manhattan. For the next seven years we lived in one-bedroom apartments with galley kitchens and very little cabinet space, so for a long time I was a ridiculously minimalist cook, slicing onions on a plate with a steak knife. Gradually I have learned that a few simple tools are worth the space they take up, and the expense of buying quality versions. I like my chef's knife, my paring knife, my zester, my cutting boards, my coffee grinder, and my blender. I even bought a second coffee grinder this weekend to use as a spice mill. But I still don't own a toaster oven! Perhaps I should break down and buy one, but the idea of having one more appliance cluttering up my still small kitchen remains a net negative.
7. Preserving: How long can you really keep corn in the refrigerator before it loses its sweetness? How do I tell whether an egg is still good for Hollandaise, baking, or nothing? I only have a small side-by-side freezer, but I keep chicken broth and pesto in it, and this year, corn. So far I've made no forays into canning or preserving, but I could see possibly trying it one day, especially for preserves.
A chalkboard list of vegetables from early summer
8. Planning: I've never been much of an advance menu person, since for some reason it conjures up an image of a spreadsheet filled with frozen tuna noodle casseroles. This is an unfair characterization, I'm quite sure, and I probably need to get over it. But I'm not at all adverse to writing down a list of my available vegetables on a chalkboard in the kitchen each week, so they'll be in my mind as I read cookbooks and plan meals for about three days out. Admittedly, some amount of planning is preferable to frequently standing at the refrigerator with the door open at 6:30 and thinking, "I have to do takeout. There's not a whole meal in here." (Can you tell I've been there?) I also find that vegetarian cooking with pasta is a nice way to fill in the weekly gaps without resorting to Chipotle.
9. Costs: Is this cost efficient? I really like what Rick Saenz had to say this weekend about the cost efficiency of making your own foods. The short answer is no, but it's satisfying nonetheless. His family is trying to work their way into a totally alternative, agrarian economy. I can sympathize, but since our family lives in of one of the most cash-intensive cities of the world (notwithstanding the events of the last couple of weeks), I can't kid myself. Of course we spend a fortune on food. But my goal is simply to make the best and most nutritious food I can at a reasonable price, and to have fun doing it. And hopefully, at least in New York terms, I can at least avoid the expensive take out, gourmet food counter, and trendy restaurant habits that so many fall into just because they "don't cook." This is fine, I'm sure, if you're a young working single, in the city for the thrilling experience of it, who eats at her desk while working late, or who goes out to socialize. But since I stay home all day and my daughter considers cooking something of a bonding experience, and since I have so many places to obtain quality ingredients, including my own planter boxes, it would really be a shame if I didn't take advantage of it and learn the art of cooking.
And of course, there are all those macro-economic reasons to eat locally and buy fair trade, which I think are good reasons, but they're beyond the scope of what I'm talking about today, and I'm sure you can find perfectly good explanations elsewhere! (Check out Rick's blog, above, some good ones, by the way.)
C.Z.'s homemade pizza. Much better than takeout!
So there you have it: A very incomplete explanation of our family's approach to food!